Collagen 101: the science without the hype

Should you add collagen to your skincare routine? Read on....

Collagen is one of the body’s most abundant proteins — a structural scaffold that gives strength and elasticity to skin, bones, tendons and other connective tissues. Over time, our ability to produce it naturally declines, contributing to wrinkles, joint stiffness and a gradual loss of tissue resilience.

But does taking collagen — in food or as a supplement — actually make a meaningful difference?

What is collagen?

Collagen is a triple-helix protein made from amino acids — especially glycine, proline and hydroxyproline. The cells that produce it are called fibroblasts.

Fibroblasts don’t work like a glue gun waiting for a scoop of collagen powder. They build collagen from scratch, and to do that they need:

• Amino acids from dietary protein – the basic building blocks

• Vitamin C – essential for the chemical steps that stabilise collagen

• Minerals such as zinc and copper – the “tools” for collagen-building enzymes

• A supportive internal environment – stable blood sugar, good sleep and lower levels of chronic inflammation

If any of these are missing, the body can’t assemble collagen efficiently — so even the best supplement has limited impact unless the foundations are in place.

Collagen-rich foods

You can get collagen directly from foods such as:

• bone broth and slow-cooked connective tissue

• chicken skin or fish skin

  
  

But this is the bit marketing often misses: when you eat collagen, it’s broken down in the gut into amino acids, just like any other protein. Your body then uses those building blocks to make new collagen wherever it’s needed most — skin, tendons, joints, gut lining — rather than sending it straight to one place.

That means what matters most isn’t simply “eating collagen,” but whether your diet provides the raw materials and cofactors required to build it:

• Protein – fish, eggs, yoghurt, beans, tofu

• Vitamin C – kiwi, peppers, citrus fruits

• Zinc & copper – pumpkin seeds, lentils, nuts

In other words, foods that support collagen synthesis are often more powerful than collagen foods themselves.

Do supplements work?

The big question: does taking a collagen supplement do anything beyond regular protein?

Skin health – what the evidence really shows

Don’t get too excited — the effect on skin is real but modest.

Multiple clinical trials have tested hydrolysed collagen peptides, typically 2.5–10 g daily for 8–12 weeks, and have reported small improvements in:

• skin hydration

• skin elasticity

• in some studies, wrinkle depth or roughness

  
  

The strongest overview to date is a 2023 meta-analysis (PMID: 37432180) of 26 RCTs, which found that collagen supplementation led to statistically significant improvements in skin hydration and elasticity versus placebo — though the effect was small to moderate rather than dramatic.

Individual trials show a similar pattern: 8–12 weeks of collagen peptides can produce measurable but subtle gains in hydration and elasticity, particularly in women over 40.

However, not all reviews are enthusiastic. Some analyses point out that:

• many studies are relatively small

• several are industry funded

• few compare collagen with simply increasing overall dietary protein

  
  

So while the direction of effect is positive, the quality of evidence is promising rather than definitive.

Takeaway:

Collagen peptides can improve skin metrics, but the benefits are usually incremental, not transformative, and work best alongside adequate protein, vitamin C and good lifestyle foundations.

Joint and bone health

Collagen is a structural protein in cartilage and bone, so there’s a plausible role for supplements to support these tissues.

Research suggests that hydrolysed collagen peptides may help with joint pain and function in people with osteoarthritis, with meta-analyses and RCTs reporting reduced pain and improved outcomes compared with placebo (PMID: 30368550).

Collagen peptide supplementation has also been associated with increased bone mineral density and improved bone turnover markers, particularly in postmenopausal women and when taken with calcium and vitamin D (PMID: 29337906).

However, larger high-quality trials with consistent results are still lacking, and systematic reviews emphasise that more rigorous evidence is needed before we can make firm recommendations.

Takeaway: Collagen supplements may offer joint support and could benefit bone density in combination with other nutrients, but the evidence is not yet conclusive.

Should you supplement?

Collagen supplements sit in the “promising but not proven” category.

They may be worth considering — as an addition, not a replacement — particularly for:

• women in peri/menopause

• those with joint symptoms

• people whose diets are low in protein

But the effects are generally small, and we don’t yet know whether collagen peptides are better than simply increasing overall dietary protein.

If you want to try it, treat collagen as:

• a short trial (8–12 weeks)

• alongside adequate protein

• with realistic expectations

  
  

Your collagen action plan

To support collagen naturally:

✔ Aim for quality protein at each meal

✔ Include vitamin C-rich foods daily

✔ Get zinc and copper from seeds, nuts, legumes

✔ Protect skin from UV damage and chronic inflammation

✔ Prioritise sleep, stress balance and physical activity

If you do choose supplements:-  

• 2.5–10 g hydrolysed collagen peptide daily;

• go for a reputable brand - some of my favourites are Bare Biology, Wild Nutrition or BioCare;

• take for at least 8–12 weeks to assess changes;

• pair with vitamin C for better synthesis.

Bottom Line: Collagen isn’t magic — it’s materials. What turns those materials into stronger skin and joints is the way you eat, move, sleep and live.